My first job after college was at a winery on Keuka Lake called Dr. Konstantin Frank’s VInifera Wine Cellars. And I loved it. I loved it because of the warm summer days sitting on the winery deck at lunch time looking out towards the bluff and feeling the cool wind drafts that make this such a good wine growing region. I loved it because of the musty smell of smashed fruit among the riotous colors of autumn leaves during harvest. Because of long walks down dirt roads. Because of the free wine 😉 (don’t worry, I was 22).
Typically wine grapes grow better in warmer places than Upstate New York. But they grow well in the Finger Lakes because of the lakes themselves and the steep slopes that surround them. The incline helps drain the soil and the lakes store warmth that keeps the hills surrounding more temperate, and protects them from frost. I know, I’m probably boring you, wine growing in the Finger Lakes region is likely not what you came here for. Ok, wait though, just a few more fun facts…
Initially the only grapes that would grow in the area were sweet American varieties, not the European ones that make fancy dry wines that people spend a lot of money on. Until, wait for it… a Ukranian immigrant called Dr. Konstantin Frank figured out how to graft European vines onto American root stock. And voila! European wine grapes in the Finger Lakes and the birth of the winery that nearly 50 years later would become my first job.
Ok, viticulture history lessons are over, but I love this place, and I love this lake, and I love everything around it. So here’s what you should do:
Visit Dr. Frank’s Wine Cellars on the hilly West side of Keuka. It’s changed a lot since my days working there, and is now being run by a 4th generation of Frank, the brilliant and wonderful, Meaghan Frank. While in the area, swing by Heron Hill, for the beautiful tasting room and Bully HIll for their fun atmosphere. Eat at the Bull Hill Restaurant, it’s so good!
Steuben Brewing Company is also worth a visit, and since you’re halfway down the West side of the lake already, you might as well continue to Branchport and hike around the property of 10,000 Delights B&B. It is wonderful and weird and you will love it.
If you’re in the mood for more walking, take the Outlet Trail in Penn Yan. It has some nice swimming in the summer.
If you like crafts, go to The Windmill, a gigantic Amish farm and craft market. If you’re hungry for lake views and good food go to The Switzerland Inn, The Waterfront Restaurant, or Lakeside Restaurant & Tavern, you won’t be disappointed.
If you’re looking for more wine, go to Domaine Leseurre and Weis Vineyards on the East side of Keuka lake. The wines are fantastic and the humans who own them are even better than fantastic.
You could spend a whole day in Hammondsport alone, so you should do that. Go to Champlin Beach, eat at all the restaurants. Get ice cream and walk to Depot Park. Take some time to appreciate Budget Travel’s 2012 Coolest Small Town in America.